東美档 沟渠血蛤
143, Jalan Bunga Raya, Kampung Jawa, 75100 Melaka
Longkang siham is one of those Malacca foods that English-language guides consistently miss. The concept is simple: blanched blood cockles (siham) served with a punchy dipping sauce made from hae ko (fermented prawn paste), belacan, and chilli. You sit on tiny stools in a narrow back lane off Jalan Bunga Raya, crack open the shells, dip, and eat.
Tong Bee has been doing this since 1959, founded by Qiu Dongmei. Now in its third generation. A rival stall, Capitol Seafood, set up in the same back lane in 1967. Both families have been competing for over 50 years in a lane barely wide enough for two people to pass. The sauce recipe is what separates them, and both guard theirs.
Beyond cockles, Tong Bee also serves sotong kangkung (squid with water spinach), charcoal-grilled tofu, and dried squid. A full meal is about RM 13. Open evenings from 6pm, closed Wednesdays. This is not pretty food in a pretty setting. It is back-lane street food that has survived 65 years because it is genuinely good.
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Decades-old family operations. The recipe came from a grandparent. The queue is part of the experience. They close when they sell out, not when the clock says so.