永志成饼家
30, Jalan Temenggong, Bandar Hilir, 75000 Melaka
If you ask a Malacca local where to buy beh teh sor, they will not point you to Jonker Street. They will send you to Eng Chee Seng on Jalan Temenggong, a third-generation family bakery that has been making traditional Chinese pastries the same way for decades.
Beh teh sor (马蹄酥, horse hoof pastry) is a flaky, hollow pastry filled with gooey maltose and shallot oil, topped with sesame seeds. The name comes from the traditional baking method: the pastry was stuck to the inside wall of a clay oven, making one side thicker than the other, like a horse's hoof. Locals also call it heong piah (香饼, fragrant biscuit). Eat it warm for the best experience, when the maltose oozes.
The other essential is tau sar piah (豆沙饼), a mung bean pastry with a flaky crust. Fresh batches come out of the oven around 2pm daily. On good days, queues form. On bad days, they sell out before you arrive. The difference between Eng Chee Seng's version and factory tau sar piah is the difference between handmade and mass-produced.
Open Monday to Saturday, 9:30am to 7pm, closed Sundays. Buy extra. These travel well and make better souvenirs than anything in a gift shop.
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Decades-old family operations. The recipe came from a grandparent. The queue is part of the experience. They close when they sell out, not when the clock says so.